And so my problem continues....

Shawnzy wrote:I had it at 3 but that was first thing people told me to change and it did nothing, after you mentioned it shifting out to fast before I was thinking about it at work today.. The primary light would have alot less power to push the secondary out so that worked but because of the power of the new engine the spring wont have enough pressure to contain the power to keep it inside the range.. If this is what the problem is I will be angry it took year to find this out lol :p

So next question do I get the 07 or 04 green spring different part numbers..
Would both have a standard diameter? so they will fit on my helix?

My take would be .. they are the same spring . Pt#'s change from yr to yr model yr change. Most manufactures set a new set of pt#'s for the new yr , even though it's the same thing .

Same price ?? pick one ...mine is blk w/ green marks( stock).
I will be buying new springs for both sleds next year , 6k miles on them ..... might help my over rev i still have .

theres 04 spring with 2 green marks and 07 spring one green mark same price.. lol ok ill order the 07 one i guess hopefully right lol!

Did you do a compression check, motor ok? That's where I would start.

Got parts in, my secondary helix has 6 holes. which one do I put the spring in? and Im also going to try the marker test to see if that changes something? I should have the clickers on the tra at 3 correct?

Thanks
Shawn

Shawnzy wrote:Got parts in, my secondary helix has 6 holes. which one do I put the spring in? and Im also going to try the marker test to see if that changes something? I should have the clickers on the tra at 3 correct?

Thanks
Shawn

Shawn, On mine I don't use a hole . No hook on that end of the spring . It butts up to a plastic bushing in the helix. The other end hooks in B on the clutch..
I believe this is for RER on the formula clutch that doo used on the ss's.

I hear of some cutting the ear / tab off one end of a spring during clutch tuning with springs .
I have a beige spring from my old 500, heard some tried them in a ss ...just cut the tab off ... hmmmm

Mutt, I don't have hole on my formula secondar y so you say just cut off tabs?

Shawnzy wrote:Mutt, I don't have hole on my formula secondar y so you say just cut off tabs?

You know.. come to thinking of it , there's not tabs on mine .. One end sits on the defection ring in the outside sheave. Other end butts up to a Teflon ring in the helix ... rer

cut those tabs off , make sure no burrs

Would leaving tab on make a difference? because I curiously left the tab on ran the marker test it seems to be right? the secondary seems to be rubbed all the way down to the bottom and the primary is all the way but 1/4 inch from outside.. Maybe next step replace primary spring? is there possibility rpm gauge shot?

I might have missed this earlier, but are you running the corect belt, or worn out belt ?

brand new belt

Shawnzy wrote:Would leaving tab on make a difference? because I curiously left the tab on ran the marker test it seems to be right? the secondary seems to be rubbed all the way down to the bottom and the primary is all the way but 1/4 inch from outside.. Maybe next step replace primary spring? is there possibility rpm gauge shot?

What was the RPM's ?? speed and what distances are you running.
Primary spring 2nd , what gram wts are in there? Stock ss is 18 grams if I remember correctly , im at 21grams .
Did you try a clicker or 2 , go up to increase rpm by 200 a click . No change then spring.
Tach should be checked some are known to be off by 200 rpms ..doo's in particular.

Are you running a MPEM for a SS ?

I just put it up on stand and ran it to 6500 theand stayed there. I am running mpem that came with engine.. Clickers didn't change anything lol this us crazy I need to find my missing 2000rpms lol thanks for help guys

Being on the stand, its not loading the engine. You are going to need to ride it to get the clutching set.

i wouldn't be able to achieve the epms being on a stand?

did you check compression like kid rocker suggested? if it is shifting out all the way, I would not change the helix. tune rpm with the primary, not the secondary. I would start by changing the primary spring to a higher finish. it could be an overshift problem, but I am not leaning that way.


I strongly suggest reading Joeys clutching IQ section. Olav Aaen put out a book years ago about tuning a cvt, I would buy it and read it and memorize it.

Joeys site read the clutching IQ sections

http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/calibration-theory-and-application-8.asp

Olavs book on amazon, priceless info.

http://www.amazon.com/Olav-Aaens-clutch-tuning-handbook/dp/B0006R954Y

I changed secondary spring now I am planning on changing primary spring not the helix. Compression 136 -138 few hairs less then when I got it and it had same problem...

Thanks Shawn

Shawnzy wrote:I changed secondary spring now I am planning on changing primary spring not the helix. Compression 136 -138 few hairs less then when I got it and it had same problem...

Thanks Shawn

How many miles on the sled? Thinking maybe your clutch bushings are shot. Might want to check them for wobble. Just a thought.

where are some of the bearings located I should be looking at? The primary came off of the classifieds so that is a possibility.. Im going to be rebuilding primary... Can I reach the max rpms with the sled suspended off the ground?

Shawnzy wrote:where are some of the bearings located I should be looking at? The primary came off of the classifieds so that is a possibility.. Im going to be rebuilding primary... Can I reach the max rpms with the sled suspended off the ground?

Bushings - not bearings.

Here is a page that shows a bunch of pictures on tra 3 and 7 primaries - not sure what you have...
http://www.mxzx-revzone.com/article/-162.asp

This site is REALLY good for explaining anything clutch related. Lots of youtube howto vids as well.

dave